History Of Surfing In Hawaii
It is impossible for us to know how long human beings have been surfing.
Many historians believe that people have probably been surfing waves for as long as they have been going in the ocean.
The ancient Hawaiian people didn't consider surfing to be a sport or a hobby.
Instead, surfing was part of their daily life and culture, almost like an art form.
The Hawaiian people referred to surfing as he'e nalu (Wave-sliding in English).
Before entering the ocean, the ancient surfers would pray to the gods for protection and strength.
Building of the ancient surfboards was also a delicate art.
A special tree was carefully chosen.
Then the surfer would dig up the tree and place fish into the hole as an offering to the gods.
The greatest surfers were often the upper class.
Chiefs and warriors were among the surfing masters and gained respect by riding the biggest and best waves.
This picture is of a surfer in 1890.
It's too bad we didn't have cameras 600 years ago!
“The man is pictured standing in the water holding the board behind him and wearing a traditional loin cloth."
"This photograph shows the traditional way they surfed.”